Tie & Dye is one of the oldest
textile techniques where portions of cloth are tightly tied before dying. The
term ‘Bandhani’ is derived from the word ‘Bandhan’ that means tying up. It was
believed that wearing a Bandhani saree can bring good fortune to a bride. It is
an ancient art practice that is mainly prevalent in the state of Rajasthan and
Gujarat. The centres of tie and dye fabrics, especially in Gujarat are Jamnagar
in Saurashtra and Ahmedabad.
The dying
technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at
several points , thus producing a variety of patterns like Leheriya, Mothra,
Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The
final products are known with various names like Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and
also Chandrokhani etc.
Central Cottage
Emporium has the finest range of Bandhni from Rajasthan and Gujarat. The motifs
include flowers, creepers, bells and jalas. Knots are placed in clusters each
with a different name, a single dot is called Ekdali, three knots is called
Trikunti and four knots is called Chaubundi. Such clusters are worked
intricately into patterns such as Shikargah (mountain‐like), Jaaldar (web‐like),
Beldaar (vine‐like) etc.
The finest bandhni
work of Rajasthan comes from Bikaner, Jaipur, Barmer, Pali, Udaipur and
Nathdwara. Rajasthan is well known for its Leheriya pattern or pattern
of waves, which symbolizes water waves. Only two colours are used which
alternate each other in a pattern of stripes arranged diagonally. Originally,
the two colours used were the auspicious colours of yellow and red. The
dominant colours available in Cottage in Bandhani are bright like yellow, red,
green and pink. Maroon is also an all‐time favourite.
